EditorialDavid Léclapart, left, and Alejandro Muchada, who are partners in winemaking in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain, June 20, 2023. (Samuel Aranda/The New York Times)
EditorialDavid Léclapart, left, and Alejandro Muchada, who are partners in winemaking in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain, June 20, 2023. (Samuel Aranda/The New York Times)
EditorialDavid Léclapart, left, and Alejandro Muchada, who are partners in winemaking in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain, June 20, 2023. (Samuel Aranda/The New York Times)
EditorialValérie Corbeaux in her sheepfold in the French commune of Saint-André-de-Roquelongue, on March 31, 2023. (Andrea Mantovani/The New York Times)
EditorialThe vineyard run by Mauro Travaglione, whose winemaking Italian parents bought a small fruit farm in South Australia in the 1960s, in South Australia, March 14, 2023. (Adam Ferguson/The New York Times)
EditorialDomaine Maire & Fils vineyards, which have managed to produce a steady stream of wine over recent years, but this year lost at least 40 percent of its crop and endured mildew and disease, in the Arbois commune, France, Oct. 25, 2021. (Reto Albertalli/The New York Times)
EditorialAndrew Holve, the head of winemaking at Newton Vineyards in Napa Valley, St. Helena, Calif., examining dead vines in a vineyard block lost to the 2020 fires, on July 23, 2021. (Rachel Bujalski/The New York Times)
EditorialMartha Stoumen, of Martha Stoumen Wines, at the Pax winemaking facility in Sebastopol, Calif., March 12, 2020. (Jason Henry/The New York Times)
EditorialFrom left, Pax Mahle, Scott Schultz, Jaimee Motley, Martha Stoumen and Carlo Mondavi, who all make their own wines in Mahle’s production facility, in Sebastopol, Calif., March 12, 2020. (Jason Henry/The New York Times)