EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialA green-olive and citrus salad is the bed for grilled octopus served at Fulton Fish Co. at the Tin Building, a new market and food hall in New York, Nov. 13, 2022. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialChef Jose Luis Chavez prepares grilled octopus with a chicha morada glaze at Mission Ceviche in Manhattan, Sept. 22, 2022. (Jose A. Alvarado Jr./The New York Times)
EditorialAngel Jimenez prepares a fresh octopus salad at La Pira?a, a popular Puerto Rican food trailer in the Bronx, on May 28, 2022. (Lanna Apisukh/The New York Times)
EditorialA two-spot octopus, with a brick atop his aquarium lid to thwart his ability to escape, at the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, Mass., Feb. 18, 2022. (Matt Cosby/The New York Times)
EditorialA two-spot octopus, with a brick atop his aquarium lid to thwart his ability to escape, at the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, Mass., Feb. 18, 2022. (Matt Cosby/The New York Times)
EditorialGrilled Octopus, a dish served at KOL, Britain’s first Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant, in London, April 14, 2022. (Joanna Yee/The New York Times)
EditorialBret Grasse, a manager of cephalopod operations at the Marine Biological Laboratory, and a lesser Pacific striped octopus, in Woods Hole, Mass., Feb. 18, 2022. (Matt Cosby/The New York Times)