EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialOctopus is stewed in a rust-colored sauce that contains ants, among other ingredients, at Tobalá in Riverdale in the Bronx, May 4, 2023. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialMosaic depicting an octopus. 2nd-3rd centuries. Limestone. From the Hermitage of Santa Colomba (ancient Roman villa) of Villaquejida, province of Leon, Castile and Leon, Spain. National Archaeological Museum. Madrid. Spain.
EditorialRoman fresco depicting a fight between an octopus and a lobster. Mid 2nd century. From the House of the River Port of San Paolo, Rome. Roman National Museum. Rome. Italy.
EditorialA green-olive and citrus salad is the bed for grilled octopus served at Fulton Fish Co. at the Tin Building, a new market and food hall in New York, Nov. 13, 2022. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)
EditorialChef Jose Luis Chavez prepares grilled octopus with a chicha morada glaze at Mission Ceviche in Manhattan, Sept. 22, 2022. (Jose A. Alvarado Jr./The New York Times)